Globalista

At Baku's heart is its old city, where pretty stone houses, mosques, carpet shops and caravanserais huddle together, comparatively undisturbed, around the newly restored Shirvan Shah palace (once home to the ruler); this is also where you will find the mysterious, undeciphered Maiden Tower, the most famous momument in the city - it is fun to spend an afternoon exploring the narrow streets and alleyways on foot.

The old city is the setting for one of literature's great love stories, Ali and Nino, a sort of Caucasian Romeo and Juliet. Key to this tale of Muslim/Christian romance is the fact that Baku was, and still is to some extent, a true meeting place between East and West. In Baku you can have a coffee in the Mozart Cafe (2, A. Alizade St.; +994 12 498 1925/493 1911) and feel as if you are in Paris; eat kebab in hot bread at Sultan's restaurant (10 Khagani St., opposite the Russian Theatre; +994 12 598 0555) and imagine you are in Istanbul; choose one of 15 types of pizza at the fashionable Scalini Italian restaurant (2 Bakikhanov St., near the Hyatt Regency; +994 12 598 2850) and believe you are in Italy.

Hotels

Hilton, Four Seasons and other big hotel chains are being built here, but currently the Hyatt, which has two hotels in Baku is the established first choice for businessmen, offering all that you would expect from them. The Hyatt fitness centre and pool are where many Bakuvians - and foreigners - like to go and work out. The Hyatt Regency (1 Bakikhanov St.; +994 12 496 1234; contact Eldar Alimuradova: eldar.alimuradov@hyattintl.com; www.baku.hyatt.com) is better than the Hyatt Park (1033 Izmir Street; +994 12 490 1234).  However, a serious rival to the Hyatt has just had its 'soft' opening. The 96 rooms of the new Landmark Hotel (96 Nizami St.; +994 12 465 2000; reservations@thelandmarkhotel.az; www.thelandmarkhotel.az) occupy the 15th to the 23rd floor of the most popular office block in Baku, giving it the advantage of being really close to important embassies and businesses, and thereby cutting out the bane of life in this city, traffic jams. It also has a state of the art fitness centre and pool. The suites are spacious and the decor throughout is minimalist but comfortable. The hotel is not finished yet and is offering cheaper rooms to compensate.

The nicest boutique hotel in Baku is in the Old City.  The Sultan Inn (Boyuk Gala 20; +994 12 437 2307; reservation@sultaninn.com; www.sultaninn.com) has only 11 rooms - decorated rather plushly in 'oriental' style - it is cosy, wonderful for carpet shopping and has a pleasant restaurant (10% discount for guests of the hotel) on the roof, with great views.

Best Lunch Spot

The place that hums at lunch is the Hazz bar/cafe (96 Nizami St.; +994 12 598 2978) in the Landmark complex (see above). Many connections are made here, both social and commercial. A Chinese chef makes excellent sushi and sashimi, or you can order sandwiches and salads.

Where to party

Those in the know don't eat at the Jazz Centre (19 R.Behbutov St.; +994 12 437 5180; jazzcenter@jazz.az; www.jazzcentre.jazz.az), but arrive after 9pm to enjoy the music. Face Club (10 Nizami St.; +994 12 497 4471; info@face.az; www.face.az) is the newest nightclub in Baku, and by all accounts seems to have lift-off.... The club has evenings dedicated to different kinds of music, folk, jazz, rock etc, check the website to see what's planned; there is a lounge and restaurant as well.

Illustrations provided by George Butler