Globalista

By time-honoured tradition, introductions to Beirut always seem to contain the phrase ‘Paris of the Middle East’ – but such is the beat of the city today, that it might be more apt to refer to it as the Manhattan of the Med. Strike up a conversation with a local – charming, cosmopolitan, polyglot, well-travelled, endlessly courteous and knowledgeable (and that's just the taxi drivers) – and you will start to comprehend that the essence of mercantile Beirut is its adaptability. Smart nightclubs lie within a stone’s throw of strictly Muslim quarters. A Virgin megastore sits in Martyrs’ Square in a city centre that is gradually being restored – not to its former glory, but to something rather better.

Sunset on the Corniche sees rollerbladers scooting past ambling groups of veiled women, children cavorting around Gallic-looking gentlemen resting on a seaside bench, and chicly dressed good-looking couples walking hand in hand. And, of course, another adage – you can head up to the mountains to ski in the morning and then drive down to the coast to sunbathe in the afternoon. Despite the tumult that has engulfed the city in recent years, when rival factions were bloodily pitched against each other, the image of skis and swimwear is one to hold in your mind as your plane swoops down over the Mediterranean prior to landing. Because Beirut is back with a force: we can recommend the most picturesque French restaurant in town, the best places to party the night away and where to have Lebanese cooking classes with a cordon-bleu trained chef. Read on and let our guide show you how to make the most of a city that is confidently and exuberantly enjoying itself.

Globalista's Pick of the Press

28 February 2009 - The Guardian - Mezze is just for starters