Globalista

As the Middle East's best-kept secret opens up, the road to Damascus is fast becoming the road more travelled. The casual visitor might be forgiven for thinking, given the proliferation of chic shops and Costa Coffee branches in the city centre, that Damascus is becoming like any other modern metropolis but they would be wrong. Instead, the world's oldest continuously inhabited city is hurtling headlong into the 1970s.

You'll wonder whilst driving from the airport through the urban sprawl of the main city what all the fuss is about but when you reach the Old City you'll be captivated. Yes there are certain qualms you'll need to overcome, as politically this remains an autocratic repressive regime (a minor but egregious example being the banning of access to Facebook) but visually and culturally it's magnificent. The people - a smoothie of  Roman, Arabian, Umayyad, Ayubbid, Mamlouk, Ottoman and Christian civilizations and faiths all knitted together - have old-fashioned manners and a warmth that goes well beyond the cliché of 'Arab hospitality'. Walking through the city by day and particularly by night, with the sensual allure of the city lit by lanterns, fluorescent and candle light, it is at its most enchanting and a magical Aladdin-like experience.

Read more about the Syrian capital with our guide to the miniature palaces of the walled city, the squirreled away, sublime Damascene lunch spots and the shawerma shop that sells the most delicious street food. We know where to barter for ancient rugs and buy the best chocolate east of Berlin. We’ve even got suggestions of what to do on a Friday when the souqs are closed and the Old City is quiet. Go, and be converted by Damascus (and the rest of the country) before the Marrakech crowd cottons on.

Useful Feedback

"I wish I had all this information on restaurants and hotels while I was there - I found it difficult to find, different, good restaurants and this report would have really helped."

Romilly McAlpine

Globalista's Pick of the Press

28 March 2009 - The Financial Times - Syria's gargantuan restaurant
20 December 2008 - The Guardian - Souk it and see
25 November 2008 - The Guardian - The Best of Damascus
24 August 2008 - The Guardian - The foodie road to Damascus

Globalista Recommends