Globalista

Folklore has it that Hannibal watered his elephants in some of the many springs of Aix on his way to crossing the Alps. While there’s no record of that, the city is certainly a living history book from the time of the Romans, home to kings, nobles, writers and many painters. Now, nestled in a lush region of France, it’s a university town with a cosmopolitan air. Above all it is pretty; the main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau is grand, full of fountains and sheltered by wonderful plane trees which offer much needed shade during the hot summer.

Always buzzing with life, there are many restaurants (real foodies should try the Michelin starred Le Clos de la Violette), cafes and shops and, at weekends enticing markets stalls on Place de la Mairie. The most renowned of all restaurants is Les Deux Garçons, which is always full and has a delightful 19th century interior. Try the heavenly wines; Chateauneuf du Pape and Cotes-du Rhone are the tastiest reds, while and white and rose are best from Bandol and the Aix region.

Culture is important here and there are so many buildings - Le Palais de Justice, Church of the Madeleine, the Archbishop’s Palace and the Cathedral - well worth visiting. The Granet museum has a wonderful collection that covers all periods, but the hot ticket each year is their master exhibition of one of their famous residents (this year it is about Cézanne's influence on Picasso). Booking is a must. The real excitement of the summer is the music festival of Aix which takes place during the last week of June and early July. Renowned for its high calibre of performers, the opera and concerts are legendary (www.festival-aix.com). The tourist office (2 Place du General de Gaulle) produces a weekly guide of events, ‘La Semaine’ which is a must for finding out about the best of what’s on.

Every Saturday Aix has the largest and most seductive market in Provence selling everything from food and clothes to antiques. If you can’t find what you’re looking for there, then the town itself has the majority of the best known international shops. One of the most exclusive and amusing is Gaggo (20 Rue Fabrot) which is full of whimsical clothes. Wander the charming, narrow streets and take in the shop and sights, or if you have the energy, hire a bike instead. There are many bike trails and hikes but one of the best is on the Mont Saint Victoire, which was immortalised by Cézanne.

With its TGV railway station and Marseille airport only 40 minutes away, Aix is a natural starting point for those that want to discover Provence. There are the wonders of Nimes, Avignon and Les Baux, abbeys galore, (Senanque is one of the loveliest) stunning lavender fields and some of the best food you will find anywhere.