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Best Hotels

The iconic Copacabana Palace is Rio. An all-white monolith overlooking Copacabana beach, anyone who's anyone has stayed and misbehaved here, from Marlene Dietrich and Orson Wells (who threw his TV out of his room and into the pool) to Robert de Niro and Naomi Campbell. The pool still reigns supreme as a party scene and the hotel is a comfort zone of telepathic staff, marble bathrooms, a new spa and boiled eggs for breakfast. However, there is a downside. Things are looking a little dated and a revamp is definitely in order. Also, the Copacabana location is no longer the hottest in town, if anything it's pretty uncool.

If you prefer something younger and more up to speed, the 94-room Fasano, Rio de Janeiro is the only real five-star alternative to the Copacabana. (Fingers crossed it makes the Copacabana smarten up its act). Designed by Philippe Starck, with handpicked furniture from Brazilian architect/designer Sergio Rodrigues, it's just over a year old and offers high-design - a hollowed out hard-wood tree acts as a reception desk - and great views from its rooftop pool. Fasano Al Mare, the hotel's seafood restaurant, is a must. On the downside some rooms are small, the traffic is noisy (it's right on the promenade) and the staff a little too hipper-than-thou - but it's certainly the place to see and be seen.

If you want to go boutique Rio has many options. Although staying away from the beach may not appeal to first-time visitors, if you're on a repeat trip then check into our favourite Mama Ruisa in the arty Santa Teresa neighbourhood. An elegantly converted villa owned by Parisian ex-pat Jean Michel Ruis, this is a stylish seven-room boutique hotel.

Also Worth a Look

Also in Santa Teresa, Casa Amarelo is a charming pousada created by Laurent Gelis, who has preserved the old features of the building (the ancient elevator and tiles) with a twist of good taste while Hotel Santa Teresa, which re-opened at the end of last year, has furniture and art by Brazilian designers and artists. Fashionistas love the Marina All Suites in Leblon, a trendy neighbourhood next to Ipanema. The restaurant is a magnet for smart locals while the 38 suites are large and cool with great sea views.

La Maison was Rio's first boutique hotel, a gorgeous five-room property built on hillside, a 10-minute taxi from Ipanema. La Maison's sister property La Suite, has further raised the bar. In the exclusive Joatinga neighbourhood, the seven-room house is stunningly designed with black chandeliers and a vast glass-fronted sitting room/terrace overlooking the cliffs and coast below. Booked up months in advance, the atmosphere, design and service are worth the wait (and the bill) - especially if you arrive by helicopter and land James Bond-style on the roof.

Cheap Chic

Although the design is dated, the Arpoador Inn's fantastic location and affordable rates make it the best beachfront bargain in Rio. The eclectically decorated Casa Mango Mango is the former home of feminist writer Julia Lopes. A 12-bedroom mansion with more than 400 banana trees in the garden, it has a lovely countryside ambience. Live like a Carioca by staying with a local. Based in Santa Teresa, the Cama e Cafe b&b network has 50 private homes on its books.

House Party

Former French banker Jean-Luc Boucharenc has struck gold with his House in Rio rental concept. His collection of exquisite private houses available to rent include a property designed by legendary architect Oscar Niemeyer and his own two-bed penthouse flat with rooftop pool. If you're travelling en masse, consider hiring Relais Solar, a five-room villa owned by Gwenael Allen, one of the founders of Cirque du Soleil. You can hire out the villa for 13 people or just take one of the beautiful art-filled rooms. With only two rooms and a central city location, the family-run Casa 32 is an interesting prospect. A beautifully restored neo-classical mansion where Kings Edward VIII and George VI both stayed, the design is marvellous (21st-century art hangs below 17th-century ceilings) and the leafy outside courtyard is lovely.

Best Lunch Spots

For a delicious, uncomplicated lunch, stop at one of the city's many botequims like Bar Bracarense in Leblon. Just grab a stool and dine on delicious snack food such as empanadas (deep-fried pastries stuffed with meat) and prawn balls. Skip breakfast if you are heading to Porcão's for lunch, the best of all the local churrascarias (steakhouses). Contemporary Brazilian restaurant Zuka is where you come to eat, see and be seen. The fantastic food and atmosphere ensure it's busy for lunch and dinner. And tucked away in Santa Teresa Aprazivel is a fantastic contemporary Brazilian restaurant with great views of downtown Rio and the Bay of Guanabara. Ask for the Gazebo (a thatched tree house among trees in the garden), but book ahead.

Best Supper Spots

While Rio is still in São Paulo's shade when it comes to cuisine, it is catching up. Miam Miam in Botafogo is one of the city's hottest new restaurants. The menu offers delicious uncomplicated food, the furnishings are originals from the 50s and 60s and the atmosphere is relaxed. Chef Carla Pernambuco's Carlota, Rio de Janeiro - originally from São Paulo - has proved a hit with the Rio crowd. Cosy and chic, located in the heart of Leblon, it's a great choice for a quiet and intimate dinner. It's completely unpretentious and huge fun. Julieta de Serpa, on the other hand, is much more formal and elegant. Set in a vast neoclassical mansion on Flamengo beach, this cultural complex serves afternoon tea in the Salon d'Or (a former grand salon), lunch and dinner in Blason (a formal dining room) and lighter meals in Provence Bistrot. There's even a jazz and bossa nova club, the J-Club. Cais do Oriente is a former 19th-century warehouse that's now home to a huge bar/restaurant crammed with imposing antiques, gilt mirrors, and a world-wide menu at a reliably high standard. Part of the omnipresent Fasano group, Gero, Rio de Janeiro, is widely thought to be the best Italian restaurant in Rio. It's sister restaurant Forneria is great for light bites - pizza, salads and sandwiches. The 'hamburger al forno' is outstanding. For some of the best sushi in Latin America and an equally impressive clientele, Sushi Leblon rules the roost.

Best Night on the Town

00 (240 Avenida Padre Leonel Franca, Gávea; +55 21 2540 8041; www.00site.com.br) is a nightclub/restaurant with a clientele that should be, and most likely are, on a catwalk. Brazilian-Caribbean fusion food is decent enough but the draw is the scene after midnight, where you can lounge with the beautiful people on a candle-lit patio with low day beds and benches. Lapa is Rio's nightlife district. Run-down but glorious, there are countless bars and clubs hidden away in colonial mansions that attract a real mix of people. One of the best spots is Rio Scenarium (20 Rua do Lavradio; +55 21 3147 9000; www.rioscenarium.com.br). Bursting with energy, this former antiques clearing house is now a three-storey music venue, still crammed with antique furniture. Over the road, stop for a drink at the cachaçaria Mangue Seco (Rua de Lavradio, 23; +55 21 3852 1947). For a traditional evening of music and dance, head to Estrela Da Lapa (69 Rua Mem de Sá; +55 21 2507 6686; www.estreladalapa.com.br) which caters for a well-heeled 30+ crowd shaking it to the jazz, salsa, samba and swing in this beautifully restored mansion.

Best Samba

If you're in Rio for the months leading up to carnival, a trip to a local samba school will give you a taster of the big event. Bands rehearse while locals aged 2-102 dance to the intoxicating beat. Located in favelas, the schools are nonetheless open and used to foreign visitors. Try Mangueira (1072 Visconde de Niterói, Hose; www.sambacity.info) which is fantastic.

Best Caipirinha

Made from lime, sugar and sugarcane spirit cachaça, the caipirinha is the national drink of Brazil. Try one at the Academia de Cachaça (26 Rua Conde Bernadotte; +55 21 2529 2680; www.academiadacachaca.com.br) in Leblon or at the Baretto/Londra bar at the Fasano (www.fasano.com.br).

Best Recovery Plan

Juice bars like Bibi Sucos (www.bibisucos.com.br) can be found on practically every street corner in Ipanema, Leblon and Copacabana. Try a smoothie made from acai, a purple Amazonian fruit that's high in antioxidants and absolutely delicious.

Best Beaches

It would be hard to overemphasize just how important the beach is to the Carioca way of life. In a city so defined by the divides of wealth, it's the one place where money doesn't matter. It's where favela kids can rub shoulders with businessmen and supermodels, where bodies are buff and where it's all about strutting your finely-honed stuff. Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon are the city's most popular beaches, with sections given their own 'address'. Posto 6 aka Arpoador on Copacabana is popular with surfers, Posto 9 on Ipanema is where all the most beautiful girls from Ipanema hang out, while Leblon is smart, sophisticated and family-friendly.

Best Shops

Clube Chocolate is one of Brazil's most fashion-forward boutiques with branches in Rio and Sao Paulo. (São Conrado fashion mall, Estrada da Gávea; +55 21 3322 1233) Also, take time to check out local Brazilian labels such as Osklen (85 Rua Maria Quitéria +55 21 2227 2911; www.osklen.com) and Adriana Barra (64 Rua Dias Ferreira; +55 21 2512 3320; www.adrianabarra.com). Don't forgo a bag from Glorinha Paranaguá (365 Rua Visconde de Pirajá; +55 21 2267 4295; www.glorinhaparanagua.com.br) and swimwear from Salinas (547 Rua Visconde de Pirajá; +55 21 2274 0644). The most coveted brand of swimwear in all Brazil, you won't get much coverage but the cut and patterns are to die for. For a slightly less terrifying cut, try Lenny (149 Rua Garcia D'Avila, Ipanema; +55 21 2227 5537; www.lenny.com.br). For the best contemporary jewellery in town stop by Antonio Bernado's chic boutique (121 Rua Garcia d'Avila; +55 21 2512 7204; www.antoniobernardo.com.br).  Havaianas, Brazil's famous flip-flops, can be found in every pharmacy or supermarket.

Best Sights

Corcovado mountain (www.corcovado.com.br) and the 38-metre statue of Christ the Redeemer on its summit are musts for first-time visitors to Rio. The views over the city are fantastic and the statue is quite spectacular. Also, take the cable car up to the top of Sugar Loaf mountain (Pao de Acucar). It climbs nearly 400 metres above the city and the most romantic time to go is at sunset. Of course, this being Brazil, football is culture. Watch local team Flamengo take on a rival at the Maracanã (Rua Profesor Eurico Rabelo), the world's largest football stadium. The raucous but family-friendly atmosphere (samba drums, flags, singing) will convert even the most ardent anti-football visitor. Ask your hotel to arrange tickets. Surrounded by so much natural beauty, Rio's museums aren't much of an attraction. But if the urge takes you, head to the Museum of Contemporary Art (Mirante de Boa Viagem; +55 21 2620 2400). Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, works by contemporary Brazilian artists including Claudio Fonseca and Tunga are on show.

Best Boho Neighbourhood

Away from the beach, the leafy hillside neighbourhood Santa Teresa is Rio's most up-and-coming district. Home to cobbled streets, old mansions, artists, sculptors and photographers, it has a bohemian, shabby chic feel that's very different from the rest of the city. The neighbourhood's edgy reputation comes from its proximity to a large favela, although an increased police presence has ensured that the crime that plagued the neighbourhood in the 80s and 90s is falling. With the bondinho (the only tram left in Rio), chic boutique hotels such as Mama Ruisa, and fantastic restaurants such as Aprizavel, Asia (256 Rua Almirante Alexandrino; +55 21 2224 2014; www.asia-rio.com), Espirito Santa (264 Rua Almirante Alexandrino; +55 21 2508 7095) and Bar do Mineiro (99 Rua Pascoal Carlos Magno; +55 21 2221 9227), a trip to Santa Teresa is worth a day away from the beach.

Best Secret Agent

Matuete (+55 11 5094 2010/+55 11 3071 4515; www.matuete.com) can do anything, and we mean anything. You want to talk barrio funk over pre-supper drinks with Rio's best music journalist? Not a problem. You want an after-hours tour of an artist's studio with one of the country's leading art professors? Easily arranged. You want to visit a theatre project in a no-go favela with the actors from City of God? Done. You get the picture. This Brazilian-owned company knows everything there is to know about Rio. If you want to feel like the most knowledgeable local in town, call Matuete.

Best Event

The Carnival, of course - the dates for 2010 are 13-16 February.

Best Escape

Buzios is over - the once-hot beach resort two hours north of Rio is now too trashy for the Brazilian jetset. Instead, they head to Paraty and Angra dos Reis, two hours south of the city. See them in style by renting a fully-staffed beach house from Steven Chew. With the pick of the best private villas in Paraty and Angra dos Reis, Steven is a man you need to know (+55 11 3085 7000; www.brazilianbeachhouse.com). Alternatively, book a room at Pousada Picinguaba (+55 12 3836 9105; www.picinguaba.com), a deliciously sweet 10-room hideaway half an hour's drive from Paraty. Just heavenly.

Best Reads

City of God by Paulo Lins;  Rio de Janeiro by Ruy Castro;  A Parisian in Brazil: The Travel Account of a Frenchwoman in Nineteenth-Century Rio De Janeiro by Adele Toussaint-Samson.

Best Avoided

The beach at night. While it's perfectly safe by day (just keep an eye out for pickpockets), a stroll along the beach at night is not advised.

Weekend Plan

Stay at: the Fasano
Drink at: Baretto at the Fasano
Friday night supper: Carlota
Saturday lunch: Zuka
Saturday dinner: Miam Miam
Sunday lunch: Aprazivel

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