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Rediscovering the West Coast: a trip down “The American Riviera”
Globalista has been exploring the English countryside over the last two weekends and can enthusiastically recommend two perfect weekend excursions.
The first was in Studland Bay opposite Sandbanks (Bournemouth) and the second was further afield in St Mawes, Cornwall staying at Hotel Tresanton.
STUDLAND BAY
Accommodation wise neither of the two ok hotels on Studland Bay - the Manor House Hotel or Knoll House Hotel - is going to win any Globalista awards. But in terms of location they are superb, particularly the Manor House which isn't on the road and is minutes from the wide sandy beaches of Studland . And what a beach especially early in the morning or at dusk when there's nobody there.
We stayed at the Manor House which has a few rooms in which you can stay with your dog. It was fine, as was the food at night - if a little over fancy for what it was.
But the real pleasure was, weather permitting, having breakfast and/or lunch on the hotel lawn and looking out over the water and then in the gaps endlessly walking around Studland.
A real delight. Humans will love it. Hounds will love it. A perfect off season hotel. (It's also lovely of course in Summer but be prepared for it being very crowded then and in addition taking the ferry back over to Sandbanks can take ages at that time of year. You can take the longer route overland via Corfe Castle).
One suggestion, if heading back to London so as to avoid ferry queues, is to leave the hotel early and have lunch at The Pig (below) in Brockenhurst, a sister restaurant/hotel to Limewood Hotel and Spa. It's about an hour from Studland and serves seriously delicious food. The hotel, which we didn't stay in, is über-chic and looks perfect for short break. (They have one room for dogs, naturally called the 'doghouse').
Getting to St Mawes takes quite a while. You can either drive which can take between 5-6 hours or take the train to St Austell which takes about 4.5 hours - it's a 35-40min taxi to St Mawes. But it's fabulous when you get there so don't be deterred by the distance which is part of the charm as nowhere could be lovelier than staying at Hotel Tresanton.
This was Globalista's third trip, though not for some time, and if it's possible Tresanton was even more enchanting. The hotel has expanded since we were last here with Rock Cottage and Nook Terrace new additions just to the side of the hotel. Often rooms outside a main hotel aren't as desirable as being in the hotel itself but we stayed in both of the extensions and couldn't recommend them more highly particularly the suite/apartment no 33 at the top of Rock Cottage with magnificent views over the peninsula. (The hotel does have a few rooms which are dog friendly but the decor in all the rooms is so lovely that you're in danger of spending all your time in terror that your dog will ruin anything so best for chihuahuas only!!)
Food wise the hotel's restaurant is excellent and you can choose either from a 2/3 course menu or if wanting something simpler from the All Day menu.
St Mawes if you haven't been there is utterly charming and beautifully preserved. If you're there without a car there's plenty to do with gorgeous walks particularly from the hotel to the church in St Just Roseland (below). The walk which takes about an hour and a quarter each way takes you along the coastal path with views over to Falmouth and then before arriving at the church you walk through a lovely creek up to the graveyard. If you do have a car then apart from the main attractions of Cornwall such as St Ives, do visit the Lizard which is an hour away. You have to take the King Harry Ferry and then it's not too far to the southernmost point at Lizard which is wild and wonderful. Along the way do visit the lovely fishing village at Cadgwith and the wide open beach at Coverack. Also it's worth seeing the church at Gunwalloe and Church Cove also on the Lizard.
In summary Tresanton is bliss and highly to be recommended.
STOP PRESS
Just in from a Member what looks like a fabulous recommendation for lunch or supper.
"You must try the Hidden Hut, a beach cafe overlooking Porthcurnick Beach, only accessible by walking half a mile along the coastal path from the fishing village of Portscatho on the Roseland Peninsula. Not only does it provide great food at lunchtime but in the evening they do amazing Summer Feasts. Not to be missed. "
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