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Everyone knows Sydney sparkles. Melbourne is more refined – a Catherine Deneuve: all fine tailoring, cultural pedigree and sexy surprises. While Melbourne’s best known architectural landmark is a Victorian railway station painted in a bilious shade of mustard, which can’t quite compare with the white sails of Sydney opera house, what this city, and our guide, has to offer are its secrets. We reveal the hidden inner-city ‘laneways’ and bohemian suburbs packed with great bookshops, coffee shops, wine bars and galleries. We can tell you where to find some of the world’s most delicious food that’s so good even people coming from Italy swoon over it, and where to see the best live music acts around. And all this before you even hire a convertible and head out of town on one of the most awe-inspiring drives in the world, the Great Ocean Road.